Updates for my friends & family of a semester studying, playing, and eating in Madrid as I attempt to become fluent in Spanish
Monday, February 28, 2011
Who let the dogs out?
Also, I am definitely no where near Spanish fluency, as to my horror today I realized I confirmed to the soccer coach that yes indeed, the United States is comprised of 36 states. Oops.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Cafe con Leche, por favor
When I've got homework to do for my classes, I like to use it as an excuse to explore the cafes around the city. Over the past few weeks, I've been gradually coffee shop hopping... taste testing different brews (and pastries on the side of course) and feeling out the various atmospheres. I've found a few great places.. I might do a couple feature posts once I settle on my favorites. Perhaps I'll even become a regular somewhere.
Today, I have two major things to work on. I have to write a five-page essay for bioethics about the movie we just watched, Mar Adentro, which was about assisted suicide. Very tough topic. Interesting points on both sides of the debate. Also, I have to read the first half of a novel called "Una Palabra Tuya" (One word from you). It appears to be about two friends from high-school who become involved in each other's lives again or something. I will definitely need some caffeine to help me get through all of that en español.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Drizzly day in Amsterdam
It has been rainy all day, but Haley and I think it adds to the city's charm. Hasn't stopped us from having a great time. This morning we headed over to the Anne Frank House to check out the secret annex and her original diary, which is red and white checkered fyi. Then we went to the Van Gogh museum to see some Impressionist works. I loove Van Gogh. There was a lot of Monet pieces too, of which I'm a fan.
Now it's time for some dindin!
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Friday, February 25, 2011
We in the Red Light District
May seem out of place at first, but a short history lesson makes it surprisingly logical.
Prostitution was a natural development for the city of Amsterdam mainly because it was a hub for ships. This caused two things -- an influx of men on long trips who hadn't seen women in a while, and women searching for a way to make money while their husbands were off on treacherous journeys.
Aka the perfect recipe for selling sex. The church was then necessary for the sailors to be forgiven of their sins before they hopped back on the dangerous boats.
Prostitution is now legal in Amsterdam, which actually allows them to regulate it more.. Keeping things cleaner and safer.
I didn't take any pics of the actual prostitutes because apparently they have been known to throw urine on you if you do that.
In my opinion, the results were mixed. Some of the girls were hot, others were nastyyyy. Some of the little side streets have themes.. From asian to elite street (the prettiest girls of course).. There's even a street where the girls aren't actually girls...
And the lights are actually red! In case you were wondering.
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Thursday, February 24, 2011
Endorphins make you happy
My quality of life is highly dependent upon accessibility to running routes. Having a nice park or trail within foot distance of my residence exponentially increases my endorphin flow, which as Elle Woods clearly understood is a key component of happiness.
Luckily, Parque del Santander is just around the corner from my apartment, with patches of greenery that provide an escape from the city. Though the park is on the smaller side, it packs a lot inside the one-kilometer track. The golf driving range, tennis courts, soccer courts, restaurants, and playgrounds attract madrileños from all walks of life... which makes for some great people watching. Though sometimes I would prefer not to see the skin tight pants the older joggers over here love to don, it is a nice reminder that it is just as fun to pass middle-aged men in Spain as it is in los Estados Unidos.
My run this morning was absolutely beautiful. The sky was so blue and the grass so green. And the weather was pleasant. The only things missing were my two favorite running buddies -- Daddy and Bit Bit!
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Croquetas!
Because every Spanish mother makes them, and each makes them her own special way. Just like paella, there are a million different recipes for croquetas. They can be made with ham, tuna, chicken -- any type of meat, as long as it's minced. The meat is added to any combination of vegetables, milk, onion, beer, wine, bread or spices. The common denominator is that they are all covered with breadcrumbs and then deep-fried. Think crab cakes, but with ham and more dough. They come in varying sizes too -- from the giant balls at El Tigre to the more manageable cylinders in my house.
The result: crunchy deliciousness. (The term "croqueta" actually comes from the French verb "croquer," which means to crunch.) Croquetas are an extremely popular tapas dish in Spain, though they can be eaten as a main dish or a side also. In mi casa, they are typically served alongside soup or stew.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Money often costs too much
But 1 euro does not equal 1 dollar, and this deceiving fact is a major contributor to why I'm going to be completely broke when I return to the States. The current exchange rate is that 1.3669 USD = 1 euro. So every time I spend 60 cents on a water bottle, I'm actually spending more like a dollar.
ATMs and credit cards also charge small conversion fees, which is annoying. I've been mainly relying on cash during my Spanish purchases.. especially since a lot of local places here don't take credit cards. I just withdraw semi-big sums each time at the ATM to minimize fees and store most of it in my room. Then I carry around the cash I need for each day with me. This is a helpful budgeting mechanism for going out. I can say, "Alright, I'm going to spend 10 euros tonight..." and then I have to stick to it because that's all I bring!
Monday, February 21, 2011
Time Out
- Throw the soccer ball as far as you possibly can. Then tell the kid that tried to slack on the warm up to go get it.
- Ignore the very existence of the whiner in the corner. If you pretend he's not there, maybe he actually will disappear.
- When a kid won't stop tickling everyone else, pick him up by his elbow and move him out of arm's distance (which isn't really that far for a seven-year-old) from the others.
- If somebody won't stop sucking his thumb, just slap it away. No need for words.. it's obvious why he shouldn't be doing that.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Why sleep when you can siesta?
Last night was a prime example of my sleep-deprived lifestyle. After a day of exploring Park Guell, sight-seeing at the Sagrada Familia and Barceloneta beaches, taste-testing cava, and singing along to Disney at the magic founation show, my friends and I were teetering on exhaustion. We set out for a place where we could sip on sangria, planning to have a laid back night.
Yet we had one rule: The fact that we had to wake up at 6:45 a.m. for our dirt cheap flight was not a reason to back early. We are only in Spain for a short time, and Barcelona even shorter, so if we were having fun, we were going to stay out. Given my extreme fatigue, I fully doubted anything could be fun enough to keep me out on the streets much past midnight.
But a few friends from the hostel and free discoteca flyers later, we were all completely absorbed by the Barcelona nightlife. We stopped at the famous bar called Chupitos (Shots). I wasn't planning on drinking anything, but when I found out they had a boy scouts shot where you get to roast a marshmallow on a fire lit on the bar, I decided to give it a try. Then it was off the free disco, where we danced the night away on elevated surfaces.
By the time we found the Metro and made our way back to the hostel, we only had one hour until departure. At that point we decided it'd be easier to just power through, leave a little earlier, and devote some time to finding a breakfast place on the way. And thus concluded our night that my friend dubbed "sleepless in Barcelona."
Needless to say I napped through the entire bus and plane rides, then again in my bed just now. I fully plan on passing out immediately after dinner, and returning to my regular nine-hours per night (or more) for the rest of the week.
I had a ton of fun in Barcelona. Saw lots of cool things, made great memories, and laughed a lot. But there also comes a point where sometimes your body just needs some rest. I guess part of the study abroad experience is learning to find the balance between sleep and fun :)
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Barcelona = Beautiful
This gofre with gelato was actually one of the most amazing things I've ever eaten. They made the waffle in front of me, then topped it with chips ahoy gelato, chocolate and caramel sauce. (Got the caramel extra for being an American girl and smiling.) I was completely satisfied when I finished.. Literally a little piece of heaven. Enjoy the mental consumption loveys!
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Friday, February 18, 2011
Travel Tips
And thus begin my weekends of real-life traveling! (Aka organized by me, not the Vandy-in-Spain program) Here are a few tips I've gathered my experiences planning my European travels:
Flights: Don't get too wrapped into the "super-cheap" airline offers. Yes, RyanAir offers very low prices, but they also have surprise fees at the end. And sometime they fly you into airport that aren't ACTUALLY in the city they say. For example, we are currently flying to Girona, which RyanAir called the same thing as Barcelona... but it's actually an hour bus ride away. Thanks dudes. Other random advice -- don't forget about conversions from Euros to US dollars, and watch out for extra luggage charges.
Hostels: If you have a question, just e-mail the hostel! My interactions with staff have been super-friendly. The hostel we are currently going to said it was totally full Saturday night, but when I e-mailed them, they were able to get me a bed for just 19 euros. Also, you can save on service fees if you book directly from the hostel instead of through some general hostel hunter website.
Food: My friends and I are becoming masters of eating as cheaply as possible. Get your madre to pack you a big lunch, and bring a purse to breakfast buffets to swipe as much as possible. When in Spain, maximize on tapas at all times. Our other new idea -- split a giant baguette and a jar of nutella for lunches.
Overall, traveling is not as cheap as it originally seems... but I think all of my journeys will be great experiences to see the world and to make memories. Bon Voyage!
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Tortilla Española
The tortilla española is an inch or two think, and it's made by frying potatoes, eggs, and onions in a pan with olive oil. In fact, the correct translation of "tortilla española" to English is actually "Spanish omlette." Sometimes other vegetables or meats are added, but Mercedes usually sticks to just the basics.
It's a pretty versatile food -- it can be eaten hot or cold, as an appetizer or a meal. During orientation, we were advised that if we were trying to fill up on a low budget, order the pincho de tortilla. It's definitely a lot of sustenance.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Meeting Madrileños
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
I Think I Can, I Think I Can
Monday, February 14, 2011
Wanted: Soccer Lessons
Clearly I forgot I am in SPAIN during that train of thought. When it comes to soccer, these little guys don't mess around. These future World Cup contenders are intense. I actually considered turning around and leaving as Javi immediately took off dribbling the ball and Roberto sprinted in for a steal. Two minutes later Wally was running around screaming "GOLLLLL," and I was seriously concerned the boys were going to start boo-ing when I got put on their team.
As I scrambled around trying to keep up with the seven-year-olds, I pondered how it is possible that I am related to Emily Menotti. But my pathetic efforts paid off... I finally managed to steal the ball from Dido -- the fat kid with a rat tail and fluorescent orange sneakers, earning me a "GOOD JOB LAURA!" from the coach. (He clearly felt bad for me. Anyone watching would have.)
I was able to help them recite scores in English though, and I taught a few boys how to say "high-five." They seem pretty enthusiastic about having a buddy to practice English with... so I'm hoping that will distract them from my complete lack of coordination and keep me from being the last kid left every time we pick teams.
If anyone has any advice or tips on how to play soccer, I would be very, very grateful. I'm going to be playing every Monday, so who knows, maybe I'll return to America with some skills.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Los Chinos
Today I set out in search of a chino. But I didn't want an actual Chinese person -- I needed a notebook for school tomorrow.
Specifically, "chinos" refer to little stores run by Chinese people that carry every random knick knack you could think of, and the prices are dirt cheap. The main attraction -- the Chinese do not share the same work ethic as the Spaniards (aka they don't siesta for two hours every day and they work on weekends), so they are open all day, every day.
Another major bonus -- they have notebooks with lined paper. Almost every notebook here contains grid paper. I don't understand how it doesn't annoy them to write over the grids for their classes, but Spanish students seem to think that's fine. I am not adapting to that custom, and I am very thankful the Chinese residents of Spain could provide me with more legible writing material.
When I first heard the chinos references, I thought they seemed a little jarring. But the stereotype is not intended in a malicious way. The Spaniards love the chinos -- they give them even more time to siesta!
Saturday, February 12, 2011
I Heart Tapas
Friday, February 11, 2011
Nerd Alert: Science and books on the weekend
First stop was the Museo de las Ciencias Naturales (Natural Science Museum). They had a lot of stuffed animals, artifacts, and information on all things natural. I felt a little weird as I was surrounded by elementary school students on field trips, but I thought it was cool! My favorite thing I saw was a GIANT octopus that weighs 500 kg (aka 1,102 pounds):
After my science sesh, I went over to check out the national library. I thought the building wasn't open to the public, but to my pleasant surprise there was a museum inside! And it was FREE.
Then the surprise got even better because the temporary exhibit was all about cooking and food! My favorite topic! So I got to see a bunch of cookbooks, recipes, advertisements, photographs, and even cooking appliances to illustrate the history of Spain. It was awesome.
After that, I strolled around the ritzy streets of the Salamanca neighborhood. Did some window shopping and lamented about my lack of dinero. It's a gorgeous day here in Madrid. I'm really loving the sunny, mid-50's weather we've been having. Hope it's here to stay!
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Watch Yo Back, Seriously
Yesterday on a crowded metro, a man casually bumped into her. She didn't even notice, but he swiped her wallet, which contained some cash, her unlimited metro pass, her school ID, and the keys to our apartment. We had to get the locks on our apartment changed last night... probably the worst part because it was expensive :(
This experience was a lesson for me that you can never be too careful. I've heard a few tips from people to avoid robberies -- keep your bag zipped and in front of you at all times (cross-bodies are the best); only carry around small amounts of cash; keep your keys separated from your money; stay alert at all times.
I'm really hoping that I don't get pick-pocketed during my time abroad, or ever really. Now I keep checking my purse every five minutes to make sure I have everything. I just have to keep telling myself -- you can never let your guard down. Not even for a second.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Pass the Paella
It's hard to pin down my favorite dish over here, but I think paella just might be it. It's hard to talk about Spain without talking about paella -- it's a staple in the food culture.
Our teacher told us that paella originated as poor people's food -- they would just mix whatever they had around the house to make it. This is probably the reason that dozens and dozens of different recipes exist. Some paella dishes are made with seafood, others with chorizo, some are even vegetarian. The common thread amongst all dishes is that they are made with rice.... and they are cooked with saffron and olive oil.
Given the hype from every person I talk to about paella, I don't think the exact meats and vegetables matter. It's all delicioso.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
First Day of School
Now it's on to the real classes, which I'm excited about given my nerdy nature. With some careful planning, I managed to score a three-day long school week. I know my mom will want me to send her my schedule, so I'm just going to post it here:
Monday
9:30 - 11 -- Contemporary Spain (Culture)
11 - 12:30 -- Bioethics
1 - 2:30 -- Phonology
Tuesday
9 - 10:30 -- Contemporary Spain (Culture)
10:30 - 1 -- "From the Novel to the Screen in Democratic Spain" (Literature)
Wednesday
10:30 - 12 -- Bioethics
12 - 1:30 -- Phonology
Monday, February 7, 2011
Flamenco in the caves!
Supposedly the place was authentic and not laden with tourists, but I seriously doubted that as a busload of asians followed us americanos into the cave. (And yes, the asians blatantly took pictures of ME before the show... Apparently my blonde hair/blue eyes combo is scrapbook-worthy.) Fun fact -- It was also the same place Michelle Obama went to flamenco when she visited Spain.
Anyways, flamenco is a southern Spanish dance associated with los gitanos (the gypsies), and it's really fun to watch!
The passionate dancers stomped their feet, moved their arms, and shook their hips to music sung by a chief man sitting at the front of the cave. I don't know how the women don't break their ankles in their heels.
We embraced the Spanish culture, yelling "guapa" (beauty) at all the dancers and clapping along. I tried to take a picture to capture the energy and happiness, but action shots are hard, so I just gave up and enjoyed the show. Here's the best I got..
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Sunday, February 6, 2011
Granada!
We got here last night just in time to explore the traditional Spanish tapas bars interspersed with Moroccan hookah bars.
Today we visited Alhambra -- this palace city built by Muslims a reallllllly long time ago. It was gorgeous. Lots of cool architecture and really pretty gardens.
Afterwards we went to get falafel, and we even scored some free crepes for being "chicas." Then we strolled around, shopping and soaking in the views.
Now its time to shower and siesta. Hasta luego!
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Saturday, February 5, 2011
Los Bocadillos!
When we have program excursions that require us to miss lunch or get back late, our madres pack us bocadillos to help tide over our tummies. Of course, they all like to throw in more than just a simple sandwich.
On our first outing, Mercedes packed me two sandwiches (bread, cheese, and meat), half of a package of digestive cookies, a pear, an apple, and a juice box. And that was just supposed be a SNACK. They fed us lunch later in the afternoon.
Today, we are heading out to Granada for a few days. The program's requiring us to pay for our own meals (major boooo), so I told her this time I needed a whole lunch packed. I'm excited to see what all she stuffs into my plastic bag!
I think it's absolutely precious when they pack us these little meals to go. She says she will do it any time I want to travel or can't make it back for lunch. Makes me feel like I'm in elementary school all over again. But seriously, this free food to-go is a nice luxury!
Friday, February 4, 2011
The Art of Layering
Honestly, I could wear the same thing to class everyday and no one would know because I never take off my big coat. Or my gloves for that matter. (Thank you Daddy for the fingerless gloves.. turned out to be more useful that you realized. Forget texting, I need them to stay warm while I write!) The whole class just sits around, fully cloaked and still shivering.
I'm learning a lot about how to stay insulated though. I've started wearing leggings under my jeans, and a cami under every shirt. Scarves are essential, too. I put my Patagonia on under my peacoat, real gloves over my fingerless gloves.. and then I'm ready to go.
I feel colder sitting in class than I do on the walk over. It's actually beautiful outside today -- sunny and mid-50s (which is around 12 degrees Celsius). Yet I didn't shed my coat even for a second in class this morning. Hopefully the warmer weather is here to stay, and I can only hope that eventually the sun start heating up my classroom.
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Vocabulary Lesson
- Que mono! -- How monkey! (Monkeys = cute. To be used when a friend is trying on shoes or when your madre brings home her grandson.)
- Suburbio -- Ghetto. (When people ask where I'm from, do not say "un suburbio" de Atlanta.)
- Él es como queso -- He is like cheese. (Used to describe a guy as super-sexy, i.e. Brad Pitt. Because who doesn't like cheese?)
- Embarazosa -- Embarrassing. (Not to be confused with "embarazada," which means pregnant.)
- Tenemos tiempo echar un quiqui? -- Do we have time for a quickie? (The correct response when a boy asks this is "I don't think so.")
- Hacer footing -- To do footing. (How the Spaniards describe jogging. I guess that's an American concept?)
- Patata! -- Potato! (What you say when taking pictures, instead of "cheeeese.")
- Las criadillas -- The testicles of a bull. (Something not to order at el mercado.)
- Las chocolatinas -- Little chocolates. (Used to describe men's abs. I like this terminology. Much more appetizing sounding than six pack.)
- Te echo de menos -- I miss you. (Which is what I want to say to all of you!)
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Spanish Snackz
Yet this observation did not soften the shock when I saw ham-flavored potato chips in the vending machine at school. After wards, I realized.. meat-flavored chips are everywhere! They stock the shelves of snack stores on literally every corner of Madrid.
This experience is about trying new things, so I decided to embrace Spanish junk food and to taste a couple meat-flavored munchies. Here are my reviews...
Ruffles, sabor a Jamón
Información nutricional:
Energía 165kcal
Azúcares 1,0g
Grasas 10,4g
Grasas Saturadas 4,7g
Sodio 0,2g
(Note that Spaniards use commas where we use decimal points. Can be very confusing, especially at the ATM!)
My first thought upon eating this was "This is exactly what I imagine dog treats would taste like." But they were actually pretty good! They taste a lot like bacon, which makes sense because it's super salty ham.
Cheetos, sabor Hot Dog
Información Nutricional:
Energía 64kcal
Azúcares 0,5g
Grasas 6,2g
Grasas Saturadas 0,8g
Sodio 0,2g
In a weird way, I actually kind of like these. I don't know how to describe the taste except that they actually do taste like little mini-hot dogs. I intended on only eating a couple to try them and then throwing them away, but I'm going to finish the whole bag. I mean it's only 64 calories! They are very puffy with light seasoning -- virtually no residue on my fingers as one gets with normal Cheetos. There are overtones of mustard and ketchup in the taste. It's like spiced rice puffs with a hint of hot dog.
On a side note, Spain is known for its intense soccer culture, and I find it really funny that they also have soccer-ball shaped Cheetos. Whenever I make it to a game I'm totally going to cheer for Team Chester. Check it out:
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
El Mercado
Today we had class at a Spanish market! It was very interesting. The market is separated into different parts based on different types of food. A vendor works at each separate station, and you have to pay individually at each one. The workers were very friendly; customers talk back and forth with the sellers while buying their food. Seems to be more communication/relationships based, which I thought was cool. Here's a chronicle of my marketplace experience:
La Casquería
This is essentially the place where all the weird stuff is sold. Think of it as "carcass-ery." They had random animal parts from pig ears to cow stomachs (apparently super popular in Madrid?), and even straight up blog. Felt like a flashback to high school biology fetal pig dissection.
La Carnicería
La Quesería
Lots of cheeeese. We sampled queso de tetilla, which means "cheese of tit" because the block of cheese is actually shaped like one. It was delicioso.
La Pandería
As a carb-lover, this stand was my favorite. Bread, pastries, AND cereal -- best part, hands down.
El Pescadería
My stomach felt much more at ease in the seafood section. I couldn't believe how long some of the fish were! If you look closely, you can see the guy has a hanging stuffed animal of Nemo in his stand, which I think is pretty funny.
La Frutería/Verduría
The fruits and veggies were the prettiest part. I couldn't take my eyes off the mouth-watering strawberries and grapes. Interesting note -- In Spain, customers can't touch the produce. You tell the vendor what you want, and he/she picks up the fruits and vegetables for you. My professor said that letting everyone touch them over and over again ruins their freshness.