Updates for my friends & family of a semester studying, playing, and eating in Madrid as I attempt to become fluent in Spanish
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Hasta luego
I've also noticed people on the streets say "luego" instead of "hello" whenever they pass by friends as well. The man on the corner snack stand waves "later" every time I pass by. In a way it makes sense, because anyone you are greeting you are probably going to see later.
It's taken me a while to get used to this slight cultural difference. I'm always sputtering, "Goodbye!"when I leave places. But today is the day that I'm finally sinking in to the Spanish way. As I make my way to the airport this morning, I don't want to say "adios" to anyone. My time in Spain has been amazing, and I have no doubt in my mind I want to come back. So I really mean it when instead of saying bye, I just say, "See ya later!"
Which is what I am about to go say to Mercedes right now. And though it's going to be hard and emotional, it has to be done because I heard there's this woman in the U.S. whose name also starts with an M who REALLY wants to give me a hug.
Friday, May 13, 2011
Burnt to a crisp
Epiphany of today: traveling with sunburn is very uncomfortable. Especially when your back is what's burnt, and the only thing you're carrying is a bookbag.
So as terrible as sunburn is normally, I highly recommend taking extra precautions on the days before traveling. Hopefully this redness will fade some before my epic voyage back stateside tomorrow!
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Thursday, May 12, 2011
Tanning trends
The perfectly blue tint of the water is not the only thing that distinguishes the European beaches from the American ones though. The dress code is distinctly different. Guys sport speed-o's, even if they aren't on swim team. Girls walk around topless and in thongs like it's no big deal.
Though I'd heard this is true on beaches over here, it was definitely different to experience it first hand. On one hand it's pretty weird, but it's also kind of just laid back.
Soooooo, how far did my friends and I take our whole study abroad mission to soak up the Spanish culture? That's just going to have to remain a mystery.
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
Hostel of the year award
I kept thinking there must be a catch to our hostel here since it was dirt cheap. It all seemed too good to be true -- we got a private room with 3 beds (I'm with two friends), breakfast included, and it's right across the street from the beach.
But it all exceeded my expectations. The room is great, and having our own space is nice after a few nights in a crowded dorm in Valencia. And the breakfast includes cereal! So I'm happy.
We determined that the two main reasons we got such a steal are that it's still off season (summer hasn't officially started here), and we are only staying on weeknights. It's actually nice having less crowds.. More sand space for us.
I am thoroughly pleased that my last European hostel experienced turned out to be the cheapest AND the most luxurious. Definitely a good way to wrap up study abroad.
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Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Free as we'll ever be
We started out the day by sleeping in. Then we went to the Mercat Central, which happens to be Europe's largest food market. We bought whatever our little hearts desired to prepare a picnic. The best decision we made was to each compile our own little bags of trail mix from the nuts stand.
Next stop was the bike rental store. I took the whole non-responsibility thing to an extreme and wiped out in the first five minutes from not paying attention to where I was pedaling. Anyways, we biked through a gorgeous garden slash parks to the day. We stopped along the way to play on a giant rope playground along the way.
The beach was perfect. We got a great spot near the marina with a view of mountains in the distance. The beach wasn't too crowded because it's still a little early, which was nice. And the weather could not have been better.
On the way home we stopped at one more playground. This one was shaped like a giant man, and we rode slides down his belt.
Today though our worldly responsibilities resumed as we had to make it to the airport on time, which is actually kind of a struggle. But we made it, and we are in Ibiza waiting for our bus!
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Monday, May 9, 2011
All hail the Virgin
Streets were lined with chairs on both sides, and we stumbled upon a security guard trying to explain to some tourists that they had to pay if they wanted to sit there. After helping bridge the language barrier between the two, we found out that a parade was taking place that night.
So we headed out to the streets with the Valencian population to watch the procession. Four members from every original Valencian family (there were about 700 families) marched in costume. It was really interesting to see the different adornments. Then the Valencian flag came down the streets, which everyone cheered for and threw flowers at.
The main attraction of the parade was a float with a statue of the Virgin Mary on it. Everyone cheered wildly and thew lots of rose petals on her. She was preceded and following by armed men, kind of like the secret service for the president. My favorite part was watching people standing from their apartment balconies in the streets that lined the parade. When they threw rose petals, it looked like it was raining flowers.
The impromptu parade was a nice surprise that made us feel like we really got to soak up the local culture!
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Choo chooo
Eurail passes are really awesome if you're planning to travel around Europe. The catch is, you have to buy them before you come to Europe; they are specifically for tourists. They mail the pass to your U.S. address. You don't necessarily have to plan out your exact trips, just how many days you are planning on traveling and what countries you will be traveling in. You can go ahead and make reservations beforehand online, or make them at train stations in Europe if you want flexibility.
I was able to weasel my way around the lack of planning ahead by having a pass delivered to my parents, who brought it over when they visited in March. I got a joint Spain-Italy pass, so I used it for my Spanish adventures with the parents and Italian galavanting with Aunt Jan.
Anyways, if you're considering roaming around Europe anytime in the near future, I'd recommend looking into these passes. They seem to end up being a lot cheaper than buying individual tickets, especially for the high-speed trains. Oh and did I mention there are youth discounts?
In the mean time, I've got a train to catch. I need to make it to Valencia in time for lunch. I hear they have really good paella.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
Taking out the trash
Apparently recycling laws are more stringent in Spain than they are in America. (Do they even exist in America?) Mercedes informed me that if you are caught throwing a way a bunch of paper, you can get fined. So we separated out the paper and plastics into separate piles for recycling.
Then she told me she has to take my burned-out hair-dryer (oooops, adapter) to a "punto limpio," which translates to "clean point" to dispose of it. So she took that with her on her way to her daughter's house this afternoon.
And finally, she offered to take my unwanted clothes and shoes to donate to church tomorrow morning. So now those things won't go to waste.
I never realized so much thought can go into trash, and thanks to Mercedes, I am leaving Madrid in a much more environmentally-friendly manner.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Donezo.
Though a learned a TON of things inside the freezing classroom -- from contemporary Spanish politics and cinematographic techniques to phonetic symbols and proper pronunciation -- I learned even more outside of the classroom this semester. For example, I now have the knowledge of:
- How to read a map.
- Just how short I really am. (Seems like all of my pictures are angled up these days.)
- What a tremendously huge influence Jesus/religion has had on the world.
- How much I love breakfast. (Deprivation of real breakfast has been rough.)
- The importance of making a budget. (Particularly when dealing with all cash.)
- The difference between Gothic and Romantic style architecture.
- Communication is more than just verbal language. (Body language = so useful.)
- The true definition of "walking distance." (Hint: It's actually farther than across Vanderbilt's campus.)
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Overheard in Madrid
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
No olive oil left behind
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Hey, neighbor
The result is a warm atmosphere that invites everyone to come live on the streets. And thanks to this outdoor-focused life that promotes neighborhood camaraderie, I've finally accomplished my life goal of becoming a "regular" somewhere. At the snack stand on the corner closest to my apartment.
A man with a beanie runs the stand, which offers ice cream, drinks, and other munchies. I stopped spontaneously to get a water bottle a couple weeks ago, and as I paid, he smiled and said, "You're the runner. You run well."
It made me so happy that he recognized me, and his 1.5 liter water bottles for only 1 euro are a total bargain, so I started going back whenever I needed a refill. Even if I'm not buying anything, we wave as I walk past (which I do every time I leave the house) and say "See ya later!"
The best part -- now when I make the turn towards the park on my runs, he throws me a giant thumbs up! It makes me feel like I'm running a road race every day. It's funny how simple things like being friends with your neighbor can brighten your day.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Celebrate good times
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Happy Mother's Day!
It remains a mystery to me as to why these holidays have different dates in different countries. Father's Day was back in March over here, too.
Everyone walking around the streets today was carrying a bouquet -- a testament to all of the loved mothers around the city. Now that I have two mothers and all, it only makes sense that I celebrate the holiday twice, so I bought a little something for Mercedes as well.
I first noticed the holiday coming from all of the ads in store windows as I walked around the city. Sephora busted out new perfumes, and electronic stores are showcasing the most convenient household gadgets.
But let's be real -- what really caught my attention were the window displays of the pastry shops. Special "Mother's cakes" are all over the place. There's also "I love you" lollipops and assorted chocolate boxes around. Also, a lot of restaurants are advertising that mothers eat for free today! It's all been causing my mouth to water every time I leave the house.
In my opinion, dessert is the best part of Mother's Day, as with all holidays. So I'm going to share a chocolate treat I wish I could send to my real mother for American Mother's Day next week:
Saturday, April 30, 2011
April showers bring May flowers
Today I also learned just how awkward it is to walk down crowded sidewalks with an umbrella. Especially at my height -- where I naturally hold an umbrella happens to be right at eye level with other normal people, putting me in serious danger of poking them. So I trekked home for lunch with my arm raised as high as it could go, trying to avoid a lawsuit for accidental assault.
Though it's not really the most ideal weather for my last full weekend in Madrid, it's probably better for focusing on finals. I don't have the distractions of laying in the grass and marveling at the blue sky that I did during midterms. I spent this drizzly morning nestled up in the basement lounge of my favorite café, working on a lit paper and reading a bioethics article. And I actually got a lot accomplished.
Many of my favorite things to do in Madrid are outside, but there are still plenty of back-up options during weather like this.
For example, my friend and I were hoping the rain would hold off for us to enjoy the ambiance of our favorite plaza by eating outside tonight, but if the showers continue to fall, she knows a trendy place in Chueca, the trendy, gay neighborhood, we can go to instead.
Now it's time to enjoy the best Spanish tradition in the rain though -- siesta!
Friday, April 29, 2011
Weddings happen
The current heirs to the Spanish throne along with the queen attended the English wedding, since apparently all of the royal families attend each others', according to Mercedes. The hype surrounding the royal wedding that occurred in London this morning inspired me to do some investigación into Spain's last royal wedding.
The most recent Spanish royal wedding was actually very controversial because it was the first time a prince married a divorcé. Letizia -- the bride who, like Katherine, was a commoner -- had previously married a high school literature teacher. After dating ten years, they had a civil ceremony in 1998, but it was dissolved in divorce one year later. They didn't have any children, and he is remarried now also.
The general public was shocked when the engagement was first announced in 2003. Many people in Spain disapprove of Letizia's martial past, especially since the country is heavily Catholic-influenced. However, since the first marriage was solely a civil ceremony, the Roman Catholic Church does not recognize it and therefore annulment was not necessary before her marriage to the Prince of Asturias (Spain's heir to the throne).
Letizia married Felipe, Prince of Asturias, on May 22, 2004. The wedding was the first royal one to take place in the Cathedral Santa María de la Almudena in Madrid. The city hadn't celebrated a royal wedding in almost one hundred years previously due to the Franco dictatorship that booted the monarchy for many years. The current princesses were married in Sevilla and Barcelona.
The public resentment of Letizia was shown today as the gossip shows bashed her dress choice for the wedding of "Guillermo y Catalina"today. I personally thought it was cute, but to each his own. Watching the wedding in Spanish commentary was an interesting experience. They played flashbacks of this wedding between Letizia and Felipe, which actually barely a lot of similarities to the wedding this morning. Take a look:
Thursday, April 28, 2011
No house divided here
Ten minutes into the game, Mercedes's hija (daughter) called to tell her that her nieto (grandson) was crying and didn't want to go to bed. I don't blame him; I wouldn't want to miss out on the game either.
Later she called her hijo (son) to discuss how terribly Madrid was playing. When they hung up she explained that he was watching the game with her cuñado (brother-in-law) and some sons of her primos (cousins) because it is more fun to watch with other people, which prompted her to call her hermana (sister) who lives downstairs to see if she wanted to come up and watch with us.
After Barcelona scored its first goal, she explained to me that her padre (father) hated Barcelona with a passion because they are anti-Spain and dirty players ("creeps" as Uncle Charlie would call them).
This explains why she now must cheer for a foreign team, maybe German or English, in the European Cup now that Barcelona sadly eliminated Madrid. Turns out city pride outweighs country pride in this house, so good thing her whole family lives in the same city.
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Bring out the Bulls
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Do you need your receipt?
In Spanish land, restrooms are strictly reserved for customers only. And by strictly reserved, I mean they are locked and you have to type in a special code to get access.
This minor detail slipped my mind when I was studying in a coffeeshop today. I wrapped up my work, packed my things, and decided to hit the bathroom before heading home. Confused as to why the door wasn't opening -- it was clearly labeled "push," and I was pushing -- I decided it must be a one-person stall that was occupied. So I waited until I saw someone leave, tried to push again, and the door still wouldn't open.
Then I looked the the right and saw the keypad to type in the "PIN" number. In an ah-ha moment, I ran back over to my tray on the trash rack (sorry Dad) and picked up my receipt. Punched in a few numbers and open sesame (or however you spell that Aladdin phrase). Soooo note to self, hold on to those receipts.
To be honest, I've been away from the U.S. for so long that I don't remember if this is customary there too. I don't think so though. I guess Americans have more faith in their customers.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Olive you
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Window vs. aisle
The flight from Rome to Madrid was only two hours, so I opted for a window seat. I was very pleased with my decision as I looked over the Italian coast during departure. The sky and water were both beautiful this morning. It was a great view. But as we soared over the Mediterranean, I started to second guess my decision. A delay in take-off interfered with my bladder schedule, and I started to wish I was on the aisle for easy toilet access. But once we hit the acres of olive trees of Spain, I was content with my decision again. The views at the end made my bathroom stop worth the wait.
During the flight, I was curious -- what are other people's preferences? So, I invite you to comment and let me know what you prefer on airlines. This is the first time I'm experimenting with an interactive poll, so hopefully people comment :)
PS. Happy Easter!
Saturday, April 23, 2011
A Venetian guide to souvenir shopping
The masks are so interesting. They can be either paper-mache or leather, and they come in thousands of different faces and sizes. Jokers, cats, doctors, birds, Medusa, cry babies, princesses, and much more lined the windows on the streets. Pinocchio is a popular choice, since after all he was Italian. Some masks cover just the eyes, some whole faces. Different adornments include bells, feathers, ribbons, and sparkles. Some tie behind your head while others are held up via stick. The best part was that a lot of mask makers will make them in the windows, though they all had no photo signs so I didn't get any shots.
The murano glass also comes in a variety of forms. From bright blue to sparkly gold, the glass comes in every color under the sun. Jewelry, candy dishes, picture frames, light fixtures, watches, and miniature animals are among the glass goodies available, once again making for great window shopping.
Both of these come in a variety of price ranges. The cheap knock-off versions are on the outdoor stands, and prices change depending the quality of the store you wander into.
Souvenir shopping in Venice has definitely been my favorite out of all the cities I've visited. Its merchandise is just as unique as its public transportation.
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Friday, April 22, 2011
Canals galore
Normally I think a downside of a metro ride is that you don't get to see the city's landscape. Here it's the opposite. For those on a budget, it's the best way to see the city! Though the luxurious gondolas seem like sweet rides, they are also extremely pricey.
The canals of Venice truly are a wonder. Aside from the grand canal, there are tons and tons of side canals. All are beautiful. A lot of places are only accessible via boat. You just physically can't get everywhere on foot. Unless you're Jesus.
Aunt Jan and I have had a blast exploring this truly unique city. It's definitely got it's own feel, and I am a huge fan of any place that can operate entirely without cars.
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Thursday, April 21, 2011
The happiest day of my life
We took an early ferry over to Naples to ensure I'd have time to indulge in this life dream of mine. We consequently walked thru their doors at 10:40 a.m., and it was like the Blue Grotto. We magically had the whole place to ourselves. It was perfect because the old men who run the place let me come back and take pictures of them making the pizza and cooking it in the wood oven. They were adorable. I wanted to hug each one of them for being so awesome at life.
The menu is very simple. They only offer two kinds of pizza -- magherita and marinara. They also only sell water by the liter, which adds even more to their awesomeness in my book.
We ordered one of each and split. They were both absolutely amazing. The magherita consisted of tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil, while the marinara had tomato sauce, garlic, and oregano (no cheese). The crust was the perfect thickness and cooked the exact right amount... A few brown spots and bubbles, but definitely not burnt. The sauce was also amazing. The tomatoes tasted so fresh. Both were topped with olive oil too, which tasted delicioso. On the same lines as the gelato, the temperature was ideal. It was wonderfully warm, but not so hot that I had to wait to devour immediately upon delivery.
People started piling in around eleven, so I'm glad we had time to leisurely enjoy the pizza without battling the crowd before our train. I enjoyed my last bite via fork.. Because I saw the workers eating the pizza that way in the back of the kitchen. (These guys are my true heroes. Can you imagine eating the world's best pizza every day?) As I stood up, my stomach and soul felt completely satisfied. I don't even want to eat anything else because I don't want to desecrate the wonderfulness that is currently residing inside my belly.
One lesson to take away from this place is the beauty in simplicity. Their two item menu, cash-only policy, and down-to-earth decor all emphasize the point that extravagance really is unnecessary. The whole vibe of the place is just one of serene love for pizza and people. This was by far the most pure pizza I've ever tasted -- I think I will call today my day of Pizza Rebirth.
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Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Capri Relax
So naturally spending the afternoon straight chillin in the brilliantly blue water surrounding the isle of Capri is like my own personal kind of heaven. Aunt Jan treated me to a four hour tour, with our own private boat.
We started off at the Blue Grotto -- a touristy cave filled with glowing water. It was beyond beautiful, and by a stroke of luck, we were the only boat in the whole grotto!
Right now we are floating around some of the more hidden grottos, soaking up sun and enjoying the breathtaking scenery. Antonio (our expert sailor) just threw down the anchor for a bit so he could nap. And so we could relax, obviously.
The weather could not be more perfect. The sky is crystal clear, and the sun is perfect-o. Pictures cannot communicate how amazing it is.
Needless to say, I picked the right travel buddy for this year's spring break.
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Tuesday, April 19, 2011
You scream, I scream
From the "world's best" in Rome to a hole in the wall in Sorrento, I do not discriminate when it comes to taste testing this stuff. I'm aiming for as much of a variety in flavors as in vendors. So far some highlights have been caramel merengue, Ferrero Rocher, and crossitini alla nutella.
As I endlessly sigh in joy with the current abundance of creamy bliss in my life, I have to wonder -- what exactly is the difference between "gelato" and "ice cream"?
So I did some research, and it seems like there are three main differences:
1. Fat content. Gelato surprisingly is less percent fat. Score! For the Italians at least.
2. Air content. They are made differently, so ice cream actually contains more air.
3. Temperature served. Gelato is served more at a room temp, while ice cream is frozen status. I think this is the main difference that makes gelato so mind-numbingly amazing. (Not literally mind-numbing of course because there are no brain freezes!)
Gelato has certainly been one of the highlights of my trip thus far, and I feel very blessed to have the opportunity to consume so much of it. But that's not to say it won't dampen my enjoyment of Sweet Cece's or Sunday sundaes at the Dolbow house in the future. In my opinion, all these frozen treats are fantastico!
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Monday, April 18, 2011
Honking our way up Vesuvius
On the ride over, our driver demonstrated the many different ways an Italian, specifically a taxi van driver, can use his car horn to communicate different messages. For example, it can mean:
-"Sup bro" to all the other Vesuvoexpress driver comrades he passes.
-"Thanks for letting me pass" to the giant tour bus drivers that wave him around even though the roads may appear too narrow for two cars.
-"Heyyyyy, I'm about to come around this hairpin turn.. At 50 miles per hour, FYI" to anyone who might be on the other side of the turn. This is actually the most common use of the horn and most practical.
-"Yo, you got space to move ahead" to the guy not paying attention in the tourist caravan traffic jam back down the mountain.
-"I'm coming back into traffic" to whoever is passing by after he emerges from the curb where he pulled over to talk to his friend he saw walking by.
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Sunday, April 17, 2011
Citrus in Sorrento
We made it to Sorrento just in time for some afternoon shopping and strolling. After some amazingggg gelato per Rick Steve's recommendation (the trend continues), we headed over to a local lemon grove.
Lemon trees are very prevalent on the Southern Italian landscape. Interspersed with orange trees, the aroma of the city is reminiscent of the Sevilla fragrances.
The lemon grove was filled of beautiful trees. We even saw a grafted one that donned both oranges and lemons on the same tree.
A sweet woman was selling their homemade lemon products inside. She happily handed out free samples of limoncello, a lemon liquer very popular to the region.
I can't say it's anywhere close to as good as E-Daddy's limeade, but I do always appreciate free samples.
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Saturday, April 16, 2011
Walking in Circles
1. We slept until 11 a.m. despite our plans to wake up at 7 a.m. Probably should not have relied on a never-previously-used alarm clock. Good thing there were screaming children running around the street... who knows how late we would have slept otherwise.
2. Returned to Vatican City, since we sort of missed the whole Sistine Chapel thing yesterday. Spent a couple hours boogie-boarding through a sea of arm pits until we finally saw Michelangelo and Co's masterpiece. Did a few laps up and down random staircases until we finally found the exit.
3. Literally walked in a circle around the Colosseum, until we realized the reason we didn't notice the entrance was because it closed at 2 p.m. It was 3:15 p.m.
4. Unintentionally took a bus tour of the entire city when we hopped on a bus going in the opposite direction of our hotel.
HOWEVER, even with our lack of efficiency, it was still a wonderful day. Aunt Jan and I are both absolutely in love with the city of Rome. A couple highlights -- we enjoyed delicious Catholic coffee outside the Vatican and gorgeous scenery in the Roman Forum. And we have plenty of time to hit the Colosseum before our train tomorrow.
Now we're getting ready for a night of dining, strolling, and shopping. And we have one goal that I will make sure gets accomplished -- to test taste "the world's best gelato." (Don't worry Dad, I'll BBM you pics/detailed descriptions.)
Friday, April 15, 2011
Did you say Brrr or Purrrr?
Thursday, April 14, 2011
News is what somebody, somewhere wants to suppress
Though they are without doubt interesting, and to my pleasant surprise included some photos of my beloved Johnny Depp, a discussion on Spanish media should really focus on more legitimate journalistic institutions than Hoy Corazón.
T.V. news and radio are very popular amongst the Spanish population. My madre listens to the radio as she cooks, and watching the news on T.V. during mealtime is standard for a lot of the girls on my program. We've noticed that the television seems to be a little more graphic than that of the U.S., but other than that, these methods are pretty similar.
The trends in the journalism industry as a whole are similar as well. On my first day of culture class, my professor explained that a lot of newspapers are having financial difficulties as more and more people are switching to reading online. The whole industry is having to adjust as technology changes. I felt like I was back in Nashville sitting in a VSC Board meeting as we discussed the future of journalism.
Perhaps the most interesting part of the media discussion for me was the politicalization of the press. The three major papers of Spain all represent slightly different political angles:
El Pais: This paper is the equivalent of the American New York Times. It is the most famous and notorious Spanish newspaper, and it leans towards the center-left in political ideology. The paper began in 1976, after the death of Franco as a liberal paper. Today it has become much more central in its political ideology, though it is still more closely associated to the Partido Socialista Obrero Español.
ABC: Though smaller than El Pais, ABC is another major paper, yet it leans more towards the right side of the political spectrum. More associated with Partido Popular, its enemies say the paper is run by descendants of Franco. Though this attack is too extreme, the paper does lean towards the conservative side.
El Mundo: In line with ABC's conservative ideas, El Mundo represents a more sensationalist version of news. It was led a campaign that about the "dirty war against ETA" in the 1980's and exposed police killing terrorists. The paper is owned by Pedro Ramirez, a controversial figure who had a sexual video scandal in the past. Despite the paper's sensationalist undertones, it still plays an important role in the landscape of Spanish newspapers.
Other smaller newspapers exist with varying levels of political leanings towards the left or the right. My professor demonstrated the significance of these different political backgrounds by showing me how the different papers cover different issues. For example, when the PSOE was experiencing divisive issues as Zapatero announced he would not re-elect, the Partido Popular newspaper published these stores on the front page, while the PSOE-linked papers kept the spotlight on the Japanese tsunami.
It's interesting to see the way newspaper can subtly transform public opinion by choosing what to spotlight. One can easily see who is trying to suppress what by comparing newspapers of different ideologies, which I find pretty interesting.
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Opera goes digital
And the Zarzuela performers are actually one step ahead of Jay-Z technology-wise -- they have a karaoke-like screen so spectators can follow along with the words and understand better. I guess not understand exactly what Jay-Z is saying is better though.
Tonight I went to Teatro de Zarzuela to see the show Luisa Fernanda. A mixture of romance (love triangle, of course) and political commentary (Queen or no Queen?), the play was very entertaining. And significantly more comfortable to be sitting next to a 50-year-old man than the last one we saw.
Zarzuela is a type of drama that actually originated in Madrid as entertainment for the monarchy. It alternates between speaking and opera-like singing with some dancing thrown in also. The experience is very glamorous -- the theater was ornate with chandeliers and golden trim; the audience was dressed to impress; and the actors were classy as well.
Ultimately, I really enjoyed my Spanish opera-ish experience. I was surprised by their use of computer animation for the background, but it was actually very beautiful. The most powerful part was the closing scene where a man was left crying alone on stage, and the background soared from the ground up into a dark sky of falling stars.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
"The Madrilenian Groove Scene"
Monday, April 11, 2011
College visit flashback...ish
The informational videos and explanations of curriculum felt very reminiscent of college visits during my junior year of high school. As I listened to the director give a summary of what the hospital does (help patients, train students, conduct research), everything seemed pretty normal. But then they whipped out some recruitment techniques that were slightly different than those I've encountered in the U.S.
Apparently the hospital has a veterinary unit, in which some of the students were interested. A vet stood up and started discussing how they do experiments on pigs, but I attributed that to an error in my mental Spanish translation. He certainly must be saying something about taking care of pigs. Then, he continued on to explain how he has to leave his family on the weekends to give pigs shots. Not really the most persuasive information to convince students to follow in his footsteps, but whatever. (Note to self -- don't marry a vet.)
After this slightly unsettling information, they sent us to the hall for free coffee and cookies. Back on track to normal college admission techniques, I thought. Then the hospital tour began. Prepared to see how free public health distributes medicine or something like that, I followed the guide. As he took us straight to the basement, through a hall labeled "DIRTY HALLWAY, DO NOT ENTER," my confusion re-surfaced. He threw some robes and hair nets at us, then scooped us into a room with a pig bigger than me and penned up dogs. "Here are some of the animals we experiment on," he announced. Holding my nose and covering my eyes, I realized my mental translation had actually been perfectly correct. Before I could find an escape route, he pushed us into another room filled of "rats with cancer." Then he took us to an operating table where they conduct the experiments, and "kill them if they are in too much pain." Nauseous status para mí.
I got a first hand look at everything American institutions would keep underground. And I wish the Spaniards would have, too. Given my Dolbow family upbringing, I left the hospital feeling very glad that I was not a medical student in Madrid. In all fairness though, this is not a good picture of Spanish hospitals at large. I must say, it was a very WEIRD experience.
Sunday, April 10, 2011
The Downside of the Siesta
Until you need assistance with something. Then it automatically becomes the worst system in the world. Spain's general lack of work ethic has been tremendously frustrating ever since my Blackberry started malfunctioning on Tuesday.
As evidenced by the fact that no one tips waiters, the Spanish society doesn't really have an emphasis on customer service. Mercedes ranted to me about that yesterday, which inspired me to do this post. I feel like my rant is more acceptable if it is shared by a woman who's been living over here all of her life.
Since Verizon does not exist in Spain, I went to the Vodafone store after lunch. Vodafone owns Verizon, and the logo is printed on my SIM card, so I figured that'd be the place to go for technical support. Silly me though, after lunch time the store was barred up. It's only open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. then 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Which are exactly the hours I normally have class, and then run.
So I changed my schedule to fit with the siestas. Didn't really need to though because when I got there, they informed me that since my phone says "Verizon" on the bottom instead of "Vodafone," they can't help me. When I asked what to do since Verizon does not exist in Spain, they said "Go to a Blackberry store." When I asked if those exist, the girl said, "I'd imagine so. You'd have to look it up online." Then she shrugged her shoulders and went back to Facebook chatting.
The situation was just not something that would have happened in America. I really, really missed the comfort of getting my problems addressed at my earliest convenience. Mom and I skyped the Verizon people a few days later, and they immediately had a new phone sent to my house, which Aunt Jan is conveniently bringing to me in Rome next weekend. Thank you, USA.
Saturday, April 9, 2011
My top 5 tips for visiting churches
1. Bring a coat. Stones are cold, and holy edifices never fail to freeze those inside. If you insist on going during the winter (not recommended), I'd suggest bringing ear warmers, gloves, and some woolen socks.
2. Store sunglasses in their case, not on your head. Everything about religious life is focused on up -- towards the heavens. With elaborate ceilings and arches, you're bound to spend a lot of your time staring upwards with your mouth hanging open. And sunglasses atop one's head will consequently crash if not careful.
3. If you happen to enter during a time of mass or service, leave. Immediately.
4. Don't worry too much about taking pictures. There's an infinite number of impresionante things in every church, but there's something to be said for just soaking up the experience. A lot of the majesty and height can't be communicated via pictures. So though pictures are necessary souvenirs, don't forget to spend some time looking thru your own eyes instead of the lens.
5. If visiting a smaller church, perhaps one that says "NO TOURISTS," don't take out your city map to study when you sit in a pew. Not that anyone I know would ever do that or anything.
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Friday, April 8, 2011
Martha Stewart Class en Español
I did, however, get to flip my own Spanish tortilla! I was super scared to flip, but it turned out pretty good, if I do say so myself.
We started out with tomato-sauce covered bread and Sangria made with apple bits. Then we each made our own Spanish tortillas, followed by a massive pan of paella mixta, which donned an American and a Spanish flag in the middle for decoration. It is no surprise my favorite part was the dessert -- we had a tarta Santiago, which is an almond cake, conveniently made without flour for my gluten-free friends. This supports my current hypothesis that almond desserts are the best flavor in España.
They gave us the recipes for all of the dishes, so I'm excited to have those. What I realllly want though are the recipes that Mercedes uses, because her food has been superior to everything else I've eaten in Spain. She said she can make me some fotocopias, so I'm going to work on getting those done.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
The Garden of Earthly Delights
Hiernoymous Bosch painted The Garden of Earthly delights in the late 15th century, they think. It's a three-part painting, with a huge centerpiece and two planks on the sides.
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
I'm on top of the world
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Not So Lame Duck
Zapatero has decided to leave office in an attempt to salvage future prospects for the Partido Socialista Obrero Español amidst the economic crisis. Local elections take place in May and federal elections are in March. Should be interesting to see how it all turns out.
Even though he is entering a lame duck period, Zapatero already passed enough legislature to last for the next ten years really. From legalizing same sex marriage and expressing divorce procedures to cracking down on tobacco and regulating immigration, Zapatero's hands were very busy signing bill after bill back when he was first inaugurated. He was the champion of the Left -- bringing lots of reforms to the country, winning him support from the youth and other groups.
The grave economic crisis in Spain caused Zapatero to do a complete 180 in some of his policies. With globalization on his mind, the same man who ordered the troops to come back from Iraq on his first day in office just sent planes over to Libya. The country could no longer fund his grand plans to take care of the eldery nor his education gifts to single mothers. As unemployment rates rose, his popularity sunk.
It seems to me that it is impossible for a president to be popular in a time of economic downturn, regardless of the country or situation. Even though Zapatero has faced many hardships in recent years, I think it's important to remember the good times he had as president as well.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Boys don't cry
Not a single one of the young soccer superstars has ever made it through the full hour with both feet on the ground. They fall, slide, and dive as if they were swimming around a pool. Their arms are lined with scrapes, and their pants have more holes than Abercrombie jeans. The standard procedure is to cry and exaggerate the intensity of one's fall, but they always hop back up and keep playing momentarily. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly they return to top form after taking a tumble.
Today the coach fell for the first time. As he followed suit with the tradition of wincing in pain, he did not jump back up as quickly as the little niños. One of the boys ran to his side and said, "It hurts more when you fall because you fall from much higher than us. And you weigh more."
I immediately thought, "Ah-ha! That is exactly why I am so scared of falling on the soccer field (which is actually a cement court). It all makes sense now." Though I technically don't have much farther to fall than the not-so-short eight-year-olds, I definitely weigh more than them after all the plates of paella I've been consuming.
My secret goal is to one day be intense enough about soccer (or any sport really) that I will be willing to wipe out as I try to steal the ball. I'm actually envious of their dedication to the sport. Next week I'm going to wear pants so I can't use my bare legs as an excuse.
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Rental cars and really fast trains
We started out our venture back to Madrid today in a rental car. I was nervous about driving around in Spanish traffic, but Dad did a great job of navigating the narrow streets. We also had every type of physical insurance possible on the car, so that was reassuring. The Audi A3 turned off every time we stopped, which we thought was a malfunction, but later realized it was actually a fuel-saving feature. The car ride was perfect for views of the Spanish countryside.
After we returned the car in Sevilla, we hopped on the high-speed AVE train. It goes super, super fast.. Like hundreds of kilometers per hour or something.. But you'd never know from inside. The ride is incredibly smooth, and the pretty scenery continued. I took the picture above in the train station.
Now we are back in my apartment, packing up things to send back to the A. Mercedes is making us a seafood paella for dinner, yummmmm!
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Saturday, April 2, 2011
Spelunking minus the diving part
We ventured deep into these hollowed out rocks on a lantern lit tour of old school graffiti, natural lakes, and mineral deposits. The most commonly repeated phrase by our less than fluent in English tour guide was, "Slippery, be careful." I'm proud to report none of the Dolbow 3 that went inside took any tumbles.
Our tour guide looked very similar to a dedicated follower of this blog, known as AD2.
We are now continuing on to Ronda, where we have a tour scheduled with Jesus. From the looks of the journey so far, we are in for some truly majestic scenery.
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Friday, April 1, 2011
Southern Scents
The fragrance adds to the tropical feeling of this beautiful Southern town. We made it here for the hottest day of the year so far, according to Biz -- my friend from high school who is studying here this semester. Alpharetta represent.
We spent the day soaking up the sun as we strolled around the cathedral, the alacazar (complete with gorgeous gardens), the university (previously a tobacco factory), and the main plazas. But once again, I think my favorite part was smelling the blooming trees.
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Thursday, March 31, 2011
La Mezquita
The building was beautiful, with double arches as shown in this picture and lots of intricate decorations.
Then we walked around the narrow streets with tall white buildings and pretty patios. Calle de las flores -- a street lined with flowers -- was my fav.
My other favorite thing of the day was the Spanish pop music on the taxi ride to the train station.
So far I'm really diggin the sun of Southern Spain.
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Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Boots with da fur... and jorts with da tights
Virtually every Spanish young woman walks around with faded out jean shorts pulled over either tights or leggings of any color. Purple is a sign of a true fashionista, though blacks, browns, and nudes are the most common.
And what shoes does one wear with such a combination? Leather boots, obviously. Boots are worn either over the knee or ankle length. Some have fur interiors and laces up the front, while others stick to shiny zippers.
Though these trends in the shoes are obvious, no two pair look a like. In sharp contrast to the identical Ugg boots and Longchamp bags that march around Vanderbilt´s campus, each girl here has her own customized shoes and purses.
I immediately started shoe shopping for Spanish-esque boots upon arrival, but I remained admantly opposed to the jorts with leggings look. I have to admit though, after days of walking to school amongst the jort-and-tights decked out girls, I decided to give the apparel a whirl.
And now I actualy kind of like it. So if you see some blonde girl walking around campus in jean shorts and ankle boots in the middle of November next semester, think twice before you bash my style. It´s the cool thing to do in Madrid.
Other Madrileña must-haves: scarves, leather jackets, brightly-colored shorts
Things you can leave in the United States: stilettos, boot-cut jeans, hair brushes
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
From exports to imports
The influx of money from foreign-based family members contributed to an economic surge in Spain around the 1970s and 1980s. Over the past thirty years, Spain's economic growth has converted it from a country of emigrants to a country of immigrants.
Latin Americans in particular have swarmed to the country because they don't have to deal with language barriers upon arrival. Many latino-americans can be found working as in-home nannies or as waiters. Other prominent origins of immigrants are Northern Africa and Eastern Europe. Speaking on stereotypes, the Africans are known for illegally coming over in pateras, boats similar to those taken from Cuba to Florida, while many Eastern European women have found a niche in prostitution.
But economic opportunity is not the sole contributor to the influx of immigrants. Spain sells sand, sex, and Sangria, and the tourism industry plays a big role. The beaches of Spain have become a popular retirement destination for Europeans -- my professor compared the southwestern coast of Spain to Florida in the U.S. One issue of concern here is that retired folk are using a lot of resources from the free public health care available in hospitals.
In general, the topic of immigration brings rise to many of the same themes in Spain as it does in America. Some are under-educated, some over-educated. Racism can develop. Those "sin papeles" (without papers) aren't paying taxes.
What's different is that the existence of immigrants is completely new for Spain. As my professor put it, "I never would have discussed this topic with Vanderbilt students when I started teaching 30 years ago because it did not exist." Spain passed a new immigration law just last year -- but to be honest I don't fully understand what it entails.
My discussions about immigration drove home the point to me that the United States was founded as a country of immigrants, and the issue has always played a role in defining our country. It's interesting to compare and contrast to the way it affects Spain.
Monday, March 28, 2011
A Black Swan (and other unlikely events)
I didn't know the dark colored bird actually existed, but Parque Buen Retiro proved to me that it does. My dad explained to me that "black swan" is a term used in the business world to describe an event that is extremely unlikely but freakishly happens more than probability would predict.
An example is the way the we by chance roamed around Madrid perfectly out of line with the clouds. Amidst gray skies and fierce winds, we had lunch inside a bright cafe. Rain drops fell as we walked across the street to the park. But by the time we reached the garden, the sun came out, so we sat to "breathe Boxwoods" per Daddy Dolbow's request. The sky remained a brilliant blue as we explored the botanical gardens, then the clouds took back over the sky just as we were walking next door to the Prado Museum (during it's free admission hours might I add). After we finished looking at the 15 masterpieces list my mom found online, we emerged from the museum to find puddles on the ground and a blue sky once again. The weather was ideal for our stroll down Spanish streets to a vegetarian buffet.
Our schedule could not have possibly corresponded better with the sun's sporadic appearances. Our wonderfully-weathered walk around the parks and museums was my own personal version of a black swan that was actually a lot lighter than the name suggests.
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Swords and Stuff in Segovia
The giant structure has also served as a royal residence, prison, and artillery school over the years. We walked around the museum rooms on the bottom floor, which is where I took this stone glass picture of the knight.
Then we climbed up a steep spiral staircase to the top of the tower. The panoramic view of the city was gorgeous.. When the wind wasn't blowing hair in my eyes at least.
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