Saturday, April 30, 2011

April showers bring May flowers

Though this phrase doesn't have the same ring to it in Spanish, it is just as applicable. My streak in running away from this month's rainy weather ended today.

Today I also learned just how awkward it is to walk down crowded sidewalks with an umbrella. Especially at my height -- where I naturally hold an umbrella happens to be right at eye level with other normal people, putting me in serious danger of poking them. So I trekked home for lunch with my arm raised as high as it could go, trying to avoid a lawsuit for accidental assault.

Though it's not really the most ideal weather for my last full weekend in Madrid, it's probably better for focusing on finals. I don't have the distractions of laying in the grass and marveling at the blue sky that I did during midterms. I spent this drizzly morning nestled up in the basement lounge of my favorite café, working on a lit paper and reading a bioethics article. And I actually got a lot accomplished.

Many of my favorite things to do in Madrid are outside, but there are still plenty of back-up options during weather like this.

For example, my friend and I were hoping the rain would hold off for us to enjoy the ambiance of our favorite plaza by eating outside tonight, but if the showers continue to fall, she knows a trendy place in Chueca, the trendy, gay neighborhood, we can go to instead.

Now it's time to enjoy the best Spanish tradition in the rain though -- siesta!

Friday, April 29, 2011

Weddings happen

The British "Royal Wedding" may seem to be a once-in-a-lifetime event, but England isn't the only country that celebrates these royal rituals. Spain has them, too!

The current heirs to the Spanish throne along with the queen attended the English wedding, since apparently all of the royal families attend each others', according to Mercedes. The hype surrounding the royal wedding that occurred in London this morning inspired me to do some investigación into Spain's last royal wedding.

The most recent Spanish royal wedding was actually very controversial because it was the first time a prince married a divorcé.  Letizia -- the bride who, like Katherine, was a commoner -- had previously married a high school literature teacher. After dating ten years, they had a civil ceremony in 1998, but it was dissolved in divorce one year later. They didn't have any children, and he is remarried now also.

The general public was shocked when the engagement was first announced in 2003. Many people in Spain disapprove of Letizia's martial past, especially since the country is heavily Catholic-influenced.  However, since the first marriage was solely a civil ceremony, the Roman Catholic Church does not recognize it and therefore annulment was not necessary before her marriage to the Prince of Asturias (Spain's heir to the throne).

Letizia married Felipe, Prince of Asturias, on May 22, 2004. The wedding was the first royal one to take place in the Cathedral Santa María de la Almudena in Madrid. The city hadn't celebrated a royal wedding in almost one hundred years previously due to the Franco dictatorship that booted the monarchy for many years. The current princesses were married in Sevilla and Barcelona.

The public resentment of Letizia was shown today as the gossip shows bashed her dress choice for the wedding of "Guillermo y Catalina"today. I personally thought it was cute, but to each his own. Watching the wedding in Spanish commentary was an interesting experience. They played flashbacks of this wedding between Letizia and Felipe, which actually barely a lot of similarities to the wedding this morning. Take a look:

The quality isn't the best, and the video is rather long, but check out as much as you want if you are interested in viewing how Spanish royalty tie the knot. 

Thursday, April 28, 2011

No house divided here

Last night I watched the Real Madrid-Barcelona game on T.V. with Mercedes. When she told me at dinner that "no cars will be out on the streets tonight" because everyone will be watching the game (similar to the Auburn vs. Alabama football games), I knew I was in for a vocabulary lesson in cheering on Madrid and bashing Barcelona. What I did not realize, however, is that I was in for a refresher on my family relationships vocabulary as well.

Ten minutes into the game, Mercedes's hija (daughter) called to tell her that her nieto (grandson) was crying and didn't want to go to bed. I don't blame him; I wouldn't want to miss out on the game either.

Later she called her hijo (son) to discuss how terribly Madrid was playing. When they hung up she explained that he was watching the game with her cuñado (brother-in-law) and some sons of her primos (cousins) because it is more fun to watch with other people, which prompted her to call her hermana (sister) who lives downstairs to see if she wanted to come up and watch with us.

After Barcelona scored its first goal, she explained to me that her padre (father) hated Barcelona with a passion because they are anti-Spain and dirty players ("creeps" as Uncle Charlie would call them).

This explains why she now must cheer for a foreign team, maybe German or English, in the European Cup now that Barcelona sadly eliminated Madrid. Turns out city pride outweighs country pride in this house, so good thing her whole family lives in the same city.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Bring out the Bulls


Plaza de Toros, Madrid

Katie and I ventured over to the Ventas metro stop to check out Madrid’s bullfighting stadium and museum. Unfortunately the museum was closed for renovation, but we still got a good look at the Islamic-influenced architecture of arches and bricks that build up the stadium.

Bullfighting is a prominent part of Spain’s culture. It’s been a tradition for years, and they really look at it as a type of art form, as represented by the glitzy suits the fighters wear. The “toreros” (aka bullfighters) are celebrities of the Brad Pitt level over here. In the words of Mercedes, “They have great bodies, and they are so masculine,” so naturally the girls fawn over them. The bullfighters also strictly stay out of politics so as not to interfere with their fan bases,

Historically being a bullfighter has been a risky job. Even though it’s unusual, some have been stabbed by the bulls or even killed. Families and friends always get nervous before fights, and a chapel for the fighters is included in the stadiums for their anxieties as well.

There are two types of bullfights – the toreros can either be on foot or on horse. On foot is much more respected and more entertaining. Each bullfighter takes on two bulls per fight, and the fight continues until the bull is killed.

The fact that the bulls die has created a lot of controversy. Bullfighting is now outlawed in Barcelona, and it will be interesting to see how the tradition fares in the country’s future. From what I gather, the general population is split. It’s definitely losing less prominence with animal rights, but it still has a large following.

I will not be attending a fight because I don’t feel comfortable paying to watch the bull die. I did, however, go to the bullfighting ring in Ronda with my parents. Our tour guide told us a lot of interesting information.

For example, bulls catch on so quickly to human movements, that they have to be raised out in the fields where they have no contact with humans. During a fight, the red capes are waved to distract them, but the bulls quickly realize what is human and what is cloth, causing them to charge at the human. This is the point where the human kills the bull. Pretty interesting that they have to take so many precautions to disadvantage the bull from the get-go. If the fight were fair and square, I think the bullfighter death rate would be slightly higher.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Do you need your receipt?

If you think you'll have to go to the bathroom before you make it home in Spain, the answer is yes. I apologize for discussing bodily functions twice in one week, but at least you know I'm staying hydrated abroad.

In Spanish land, restrooms are strictly reserved for customers only. And by strictly reserved, I mean they are locked and you have to type in a special code to get access.

This minor detail slipped my mind when I was studying in a coffeeshop today. I wrapped up my work, packed my things, and decided to hit the bathroom before heading home. Confused as to why the door wasn't opening -- it was clearly labeled "push," and I was pushing -- I decided it must be a one-person stall that was occupied. So I waited until I saw someone leave, tried to push again, and the door still wouldn't open.

Then I looked the the right and saw the keypad to type in the "PIN" number. In an ah-ha moment, I ran back over to my tray on the trash rack (sorry Dad) and picked up my receipt. Punched in a few numbers and open sesame (or however you spell that Aladdin phrase). Soooo note to self, hold on to those receipts.

To be honest, I've been away from the U.S. for so long that I don't remember if this is customary there too. I don't think so though. I guess Americans have more faith in their customers.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Olive you

This morning in line at the grocery store, I overhead a little boy telling his mom how much he loved M&M candies.  "I love the peanut ones just as much as the plain ones," he gushed. As he said that, I thought back to the "I went nuts in Plains, GA" t-shirts from the 8th grade South Georgia trip, and I thought about how happy I am to be from a place that produces peanuts. What an awesome product.

Every region has its own unique products (kind of like the souvenirs), and in Spain, the hands down most popular product is olive oil. The Spaniards are obsessed. An essential component of the Mediterranean diet, olive oil is used in virtually everything edible here. Spain is the world's largest olive oil producer, and the olive trees that fill the countryside explain why.

Even though it is high calorie, olive oil its low saturated fat content makes it extremely healthy. It's full of omega-3's (my favorite), which have been observed to have an insane amount of health benefits. I'm a huge fan of the prevalence of olive oil in the diet. One of my absolute favorite dishes Mercedes has made is called veduras al horno (vegetables of oven). She just lines up a mixture of vegetables in a pan, pours olive oil on them, and sticks them in the oven. The result is actually amazing.

Olive oil is sold in 5-liter jugs. My madre has one in the kitchen, and we have to replenish that more often than the milk.

Though I'm still partial to peanuts, olive oil is a crucial part of the Spanish diet and culture which isn't so bad itself.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Window vs. aisle

This morning the Alitalia flight attendant asked me if I would prefer a window or an aisle seat when she was printing out my boarding pass. I used to always think the answer was window hands down, but one time my window seat proved to be a serious hassle when I had to go to the bathroom. I came up with a new formula for myself -- if the flight is less than four hours, window seats are the best.  With longer flights, however, I prefer to be able to just hop up rather than say "excuse me" over randoms' knees in order to use the bathroom.

The flight from Rome to Madrid was only two hours, so I opted for a window seat. I was very pleased with my decision as I looked over the Italian coast during departure. The sky and water were both beautiful this morning. It was a great view. But as we soared over the Mediterranean, I started to second guess my decision. A delay in take-off interfered with my bladder schedule, and I started to wish I was on the aisle for easy toilet access. But once we hit the acres of olive trees of Spain, I was content with my decision again. The views at the end made my bathroom stop worth the wait.

During the flight, I was curious -- what are other people's preferences? So, I invite you to comment and let me know what you prefer on airlines. This is the first time I'm experimenting with an interactive poll, so hopefully people comment :)

PS. Happy Easter!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

A Venetian guide to souvenir shopping

As in all tourist towns, souvenir shopping plays a major role in the local economy. Every city has to capitalize on what makes it unique. I really enjoyed checking out what was marketed as totally Venice. The two main tokens to take home are masks and murano glass.

The masks are so interesting. They can be either paper-mache or leather, and they come in thousands of different faces and sizes. Jokers, cats, doctors, birds, Medusa, cry babies, princesses, and much more lined the windows on the streets. Pinocchio is a popular choice, since after all he was Italian. Some masks cover just the eyes, some whole faces. Different adornments include bells, feathers, ribbons, and sparkles. Some tie behind your head while others are held up via stick. The best part was that a lot of mask makers will make them in the windows, though they all had no photo signs so I didn't get any shots.

The murano glass also comes in a variety of forms. From bright blue to sparkly gold, the glass comes in every color under the sun. Jewelry, candy dishes, picture frames, light fixtures, watches, and miniature animals are among the glass goodies available, once again making for great window shopping.

Both of these come in a variety of price ranges. The cheap knock-off versions are on the outdoor stands, and prices change depending the quality of the store you wander into.

Souvenir shopping in Venice has definitely been my favorite out of all the cities I've visited. Its merchandise is just as unique as its public transportation.
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Friday, April 22, 2011

Canals galore

I'm currently sitting on Venice's main mode of public transportation. So why does this picture look like I'm on a boat tour of the Grand Canal? Because that's essentially what their city metro is.

Normally I think a downside of a metro ride is that you don't get to see the city's landscape. Here it's the opposite. For those on a budget, it's the best way to see the city! Though the luxurious gondolas seem like sweet rides, they are also extremely pricey.

The canals of Venice truly are a wonder. Aside from the grand canal, there are tons and tons of side canals. All are beautiful. A lot of places are only accessible via boat. You just physically can't get everywhere on foot. Unless you're Jesus.

Aunt Jan and I have had a blast exploring this truly unique city. It's definitely got it's own feel, and I am a huge fan of any place that can operate entirely without cars.
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Thursday, April 21, 2011

The happiest day of my life

Aunt Jan busted out in laughter when I very seriously proclaimed that today was the happiest day of my life, with olive oil dripping down my chin. While the superlative might have been an exaggeration, today was very seriously up there. Today was the day I accomplished one of my only definitive life goals. Today was the day I ate the pizza from Da Michele -- the world's best pizza as described by Elizabeth Gilbert in Eat, Pray, Love.

We took an early ferry over to Naples to ensure I'd have time to indulge in this life dream of mine. We consequently walked thru their doors at 10:40 a.m., and it was like the Blue Grotto. We magically had the whole place to ourselves. It was perfect because the old men who run the place let me come back and take pictures of them making the pizza and cooking it in the wood oven. They were adorable. I wanted to hug each one of them for being so awesome at life.

The menu is very simple. They only offer two kinds of pizza -- magherita and marinara. They also only sell water by the liter, which adds even more to their awesomeness in my book.

We ordered one of each and split. They were both absolutely amazing. The magherita consisted of tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil, while the marinara had tomato sauce, garlic, and oregano (no cheese). The crust was the perfect thickness and cooked the exact right amount... A few brown spots and bubbles, but definitely not burnt. The sauce was also amazing. The tomatoes tasted so fresh. Both were topped with olive oil too, which tasted delicioso. On the same lines as the gelato, the temperature was ideal. It was wonderfully warm, but not so hot that I had to wait to devour immediately upon delivery.

People started piling in around eleven, so I'm glad we had time to leisurely enjoy the pizza without battling the crowd before our train. I enjoyed my last bite via fork.. Because I saw the workers eating the pizza that way in the back of the kitchen. (These guys are my true heroes. Can you imagine eating the world's best pizza every day?) As I stood up, my stomach and soul felt completely satisfied. I don't even want to eat anything else because I don't want to desecrate the wonderfulness that is currently residing inside my belly.

One lesson to take away from this place is the beauty in simplicity. Their two item menu, cash-only policy, and down-to-earth decor all emphasize the point that extravagance really is unnecessary. The whole vibe of the place is just one of serene love for pizza and people. This was by far the most pure pizza I've ever tasted -- I think I will call today my day of Pizza Rebirth.
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Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Capri Relax

Here are a few things you probably didn't know about me: My favorite geometric shape is a circle; my favorite word is "exhilarating," and my favorite thing in nature is blue water.

So naturally spending the afternoon straight chillin in the brilliantly blue water surrounding the isle of Capri is like my own personal kind of heaven. Aunt Jan treated me to a four hour tour, with our own private boat.

We started off at the Blue Grotto -- a touristy cave filled with glowing water. It was beyond beautiful, and by a stroke of luck, we were the only boat in the whole grotto!

Right now we are floating around some of the more hidden grottos, soaking up sun and enjoying the breathtaking scenery. Antonio (our expert sailor) just threw down the anchor for a bit so he could nap. And so we could relax, obviously.

The weather could not be more perfect. The sky is crystal clear, and the sun is perfect-o. Pictures cannot communicate how amazing it is.

Needless to say, I picked the right travel buddy for this year's spring break.
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Tuesday, April 19, 2011

You scream, I scream

As you can imagine, I have been enthusiastically exploring the whole Italian gelato concept. The past few days have been filled with licks and licks of divine deliciousness.

From the "world's best" in Rome to a hole in the wall in Sorrento, I do not discriminate when it comes to taste testing this stuff. I'm aiming for as much of a variety in flavors as in vendors. So far some highlights have been caramel merengue, Ferrero Rocher, and crossitini alla nutella.

As I endlessly sigh in joy with the current abundance of creamy bliss in my life, I have to wonder -- what exactly is the difference between "gelato" and "ice cream"?

So I did some research, and it seems like there are three main differences:

1. Fat content. Gelato surprisingly is less percent fat. Score! For the Italians at least.
2. Air content. They are made differently, so ice cream actually contains more air.
3. Temperature served. Gelato is served more at a room temp, while ice cream is frozen status. I think this is the main difference that makes gelato so mind-numbingly amazing. (Not literally mind-numbing of course because there are no brain freezes!)

Gelato has certainly been one of the highlights of my trip thus far, and I feel very blessed to have the opportunity to consume so much of it. But that's not to say it won't dampen my enjoyment of Sweet Cece's or Sunday sundaes at the Dolbow house in the future. In my opinion, all these frozen treats are fantastico!

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Monday, April 18, 2011

Honking our way up Vesuvius

Today we took the Vesuvoexpress train to climb up the volcano and take a look at the crater. The bus drives you most of the way up the mountain, then drops you off at a parking lot to hike the rest.

On the ride over, our driver demonstrated the many different ways an Italian, specifically a taxi van driver, can use his car horn to communicate different messages. For example, it can mean:

-"Sup bro" to all the other Vesuvoexpress driver comrades he passes.

-"Thanks for letting me pass" to the giant tour bus drivers that wave him around even though the roads may appear too narrow for two cars.

-"Heyyyyy, I'm about to come around this hairpin turn.. At 50 miles per hour, FYI" to anyone who might be on the other side of the turn. This is actually the most common use of the horn and most practical.

-"Yo, you got space to move ahead" to the guy not paying attention in the tourist caravan traffic jam back down the mountain.

-"I'm coming back into traffic" to whoever is passing by after he emerges from the curb where he pulled over to talk to his friend he saw walking by.

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Sunday, April 17, 2011

Citrus in Sorrento

As much as we were both enamored with Rome, Aunt Jan and I packed up our bags and headed to the coast today.

We made it to Sorrento just in time for some afternoon shopping and strolling. After some amazingggg gelato per Rick Steve's recommendation (the trend continues), we headed over to a local lemon grove.

Lemon trees are very prevalent on the Southern Italian landscape. Interspersed with orange trees, the aroma of the city is reminiscent of the Sevilla fragrances.

The lemon grove was filled of beautiful trees. We even saw a grafted one that donned both oranges and lemons on the same tree.

A sweet woman was selling their homemade lemon products inside. She happily handed out free samples of limoncello, a lemon liquer very popular to the region.

I can't say it's anywhere close to as good as E-Daddy's limeade, but I do always appreciate free samples.

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Saturday, April 16, 2011

Walking in Circles

Today was a day of general unproductivity. Why do you ask?

1. We slept until 11 a.m. despite our plans to wake up at 7 a.m. Probably should not have relied on a never-previously-used alarm clock. Good thing there were screaming children running around the street... who knows how late we would have slept otherwise.

2. Returned to Vatican City, since we sort of missed the whole Sistine Chapel thing yesterday. Spent a couple hours boogie-boarding through a sea of arm pits until we finally saw Michelangelo and Co's masterpiece. Did a few laps up and down random staircases until we finally found the exit.

3. Literally walked in a circle around the Colosseum, until we realized the reason we didn't notice the entrance was because it closed at 2 p.m. It was 3:15 p.m.

Oh hey, Colosseum. What does it look like inside? Couldn't tell ya.

4. Unintentionally took a bus tour of the entire city when we hopped on a bus going in the opposite direction of our hotel.

HOWEVER, even with our lack of efficiency, it was still a wonderful day. Aunt Jan and I are both absolutely in love with the city of Rome. A couple highlights -- we enjoyed delicious Catholic coffee outside the Vatican and gorgeous scenery in the Roman Forum. And we have plenty of time to hit the Colosseum before our train tomorrow.

Now we're getting ready for a night of dining, strolling, and shopping. And we have one goal that I will make sure gets accomplished -- to test taste "the world's best gelato." (Don't worry Dad, I'll BBM you pics/detailed descriptions.)

Friday, April 15, 2011

Did you say Brrr or Purrrr?

When spelling things in another language, it can be easy to confuse your p's and b's. But sometimes it can be easy when speaking in your native tongue as well.

Today Aunt Jan and I were walking around Piazza Navona, looking for the perfect place to have a truly Roman dinner. I saw a "menu turistico" that offered bruschetta, an entree, and a drink for 15 euros. The same menu also listed a special of the day that was a Roman pork called pruschetta, or something of the like, for the exact same price. (I don't know exactly how to spell it; I didn't actually see it. That was all Aunt Jan.)

I heard Aunt Jan say, "Ohhh, great deal. I want bruschetta; let's get this." Surprised by her enthusiasm for a mere appetizer, I followed suit. I do love a good bruschetta, so why not? We sat down, and we both ordered bruschetta, salad, and wine. At least that what's I thought. 

We both enjoyed our initial bruschetta. When the salads came out, Aunt Jan commented, "Wow, these are huge." I personally thought they were on the smaller side. Slightly confused, I started munching on my lettuce. Halfway through Aunt Jan put down her fork and stopped eating. I was surprised she filled up so quickly, but I continued to devour the rest of my salad. When the waiter asked if she liked the salad, she responded, "Of course! It was just too much food."

I was feeling a little bit like a glutton as we sat around for the next twenty minutes chatting and soaking up the atmosphere. How was she so full, when I could honestly go for a dessert or two still? When I asked if I should ask for a dessert menu, Aunt Jan responded, "I don't know, we still haven't gotten our meal yet."

Turns out she was waiting for a pork course, which wasn't actually coming. She thought she ordered "pruschetta," salad, and wine, while I was convinced we both ordered bruschetta. Confusion all around -- between us, the waiter, everyone. 

Ooooops. We decided to resolve the situation by ordered a chocolate molten cake and vowing to spell all plates we order in future Italian meal endeavors. Tomorrow my goal is to find us some seriously good "pruchetta" to make up for the loss tonight. 

I guess this explains why my mom always explains on the phone that our last name is D-like-dog, o, l, b-like-boy, o, w. 

Thursday, April 14, 2011

News is what somebody, somewhere wants to suppress

Yesterday waiting around in the doctor's office, I had yet another epiphany. I realized why the Spanish monarchy still exists -- to give the tabloids something to write about. From the pages I flipped through, it seems like these faux-journalistic publications may fund the royal family on their own.

Though they are without doubt interesting, and to my pleasant surprise included some photos of my beloved Johnny Depp, a discussion on Spanish media should really focus on more legitimate journalistic institutions than Hoy Corazón.

T.V. news and radio are very popular amongst the Spanish population. My madre listens to the radio as she cooks, and watching the news on T.V. during mealtime is standard for a lot of the girls on my program. We've noticed that the television seems to be a little more graphic than that of the U.S., but other than that, these methods are pretty similar.

The trends in the journalism industry as a whole are similar as well. On my first day of culture class, my professor explained that a lot of newspapers are having financial difficulties as more and more people are switching to reading online. The whole industry is having to adjust as technology changes. I felt like I was back in Nashville sitting in a VSC Board meeting as we discussed the future of journalism.

Perhaps the most interesting part of the media discussion for me was the politicalization of the press. The three major papers of Spain all represent slightly different political angles:

El Pais: This paper is the equivalent of the American New York Times. It is the most famous and notorious Spanish newspaper, and it leans towards the center-left in political ideology. The paper began in 1976, after the death of Franco as a liberal paper. Today it has become much more central in its political ideology, though it is still more closely associated to the Partido Socialista Obrero Español.

ABC: Though smaller than El Pais, ABC is another major paper, yet it leans more towards the right side of the political spectrum. More associated with Partido Popular, its enemies say the paper is run by descendants of Franco. Though this attack is too extreme, the paper does lean towards the conservative side.

El Mundo: In line with ABC's conservative ideas, El Mundo represents a more sensationalist version of news. It was led a campaign that about the "dirty war against ETA" in the 1980's and exposed police killing terrorists. The paper is owned by Pedro Ramirez, a controversial figure who had a sexual video scandal in the past.  Despite the paper's sensationalist undertones, it still plays an important role in the landscape of Spanish newspapers.

Other smaller newspapers exist with varying levels of political leanings towards the left or the right. My professor demonstrated the significance of these different political backgrounds by showing me how the different papers cover different issues. For example, when the PSOE was experiencing divisive issues as Zapatero announced he would not re-elect, the Partido Popular newspaper published these stores on the front page, while the PSOE-linked papers kept the spotlight on the Japanese tsunami.

It's interesting to see the way newspaper can subtly transform public opinion by choosing what to spotlight. One can easily see who is trying to suppress what by comparing newspapers of different ideologies, which I find pretty interesting.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Opera goes digital

What do Spanish opera singers and Jay-Z have in common? Both use animated, light-up screens as backgrounds for their performances. Trade out Jay-Z's flashing New York City skyline for a 17th century Spanish pueblo, and you'll find yourself smack dab in the middle of a Zarzuela performance.

And the Zarzuela performers are actually one step ahead of Jay-Z technology-wise -- they have a karaoke-like screen so spectators can follow along with the words and understand better. I guess not understand exactly what Jay-Z is saying is better though.

Tonight I went to Teatro de Zarzuela to see the show Luisa Fernanda. A mixture of romance (love triangle, of course) and political commentary (Queen or no Queen?), the play was very entertaining. And significantly more comfortable to be sitting next to a 50-year-old man than the last one we saw.

Zarzuela is a type of drama that actually originated in Madrid as entertainment for the monarchy. It alternates between speaking and opera-like singing with some dancing thrown in also. The experience is very glamorous -- the theater was ornate with chandeliers and golden trim; the audience was dressed to impress; and the actors were classy as well.

Ultimately, I really enjoyed my Spanish opera-ish experience. I was surprised by their use of computer animation for the background, but it was actually very beautiful. The most powerful part was the closing scene where a man was left crying alone on stage, and the background soared from the ground up into a dark sky of falling stars.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

"The Madrilenian Groove Scene"


My dad has told me a million times not to exaggerate, and I’m really not when I say every single surface in the city of Madrid is covered with graffiti. Memorial statues, stores, public transportation, school bathrooms. You name, they spray paint it.

Some of the graffiti is cool, some vulgar, some just lame. Any pictures of food or nature are always my favorite. Fascist chanting freaks me out. Random words entertain me as I try to decipher.

With one of the most sophisticated city cleaning systems on the planet, Madrid's beautification department tirelessly washes off the public defacement everyday. But the artists are just as dedicated as the cleaners, and without fail, it all reappears overnight.

My culture professor has a knack for explaining my Madrileño mysteries to me, and this graffiti was another example. In class he informed me that the over-prevalent street art is part of a counter-culture movement that arose when the dictator died in the 70s.

Known as “La Movida,” Spaniards joined together to test out all the liberties that come along with democracy. Semi-pornographic films, public displays of affection, drugs, and alternative music are all part of the city’s transition from a heavily censored society to a land with freedom of expression. Granted, it's the movement does not have as strong of a presence today as it did 30 years ago, but its lasting influences are interesting.

This seafood graffiti got me perfectly in the mood for some paella courtesy of Mercedes. Probably my favorite one I have seen, minus the fat man eating churros, which I posted wayyy back in the beginning of this blog.
   

Monday, April 11, 2011

College visit flashback...ish

This morning my bioethics class joined in on the Spanish equivalent of a college information session for high school students considering studying medicine. The Spanish medicine track is much more vocational over here -- students apply directly from high school, and start working in the hospitals much earlier.

The informational videos and explanations of curriculum felt very reminiscent of college visits during my junior year of high school. As I listened to the director give a summary of what the hospital does (help patients, train students, conduct research), everything seemed pretty normal. But then they whipped out some recruitment techniques that were slightly different than those I've encountered in the U.S.

Apparently the hospital has a veterinary unit, in which some of the students were interested. A vet stood up and started discussing how they do experiments on pigs, but I attributed that to an error in my mental Spanish translation. He certainly must be saying something about taking care of pigs. Then, he continued on to explain how he has to leave his family on the weekends to give pigs shots. Not really the most persuasive information to convince students to follow in his footsteps, but whatever. (Note to self -- don't marry a vet.)

After this slightly unsettling information, they sent us to the hall for free coffee and cookies. Back on track to normal college admission techniques, I thought. Then the hospital tour began. Prepared to see how free public health distributes medicine or something like that, I followed the guide. As he took us straight to the basement, through a hall labeled "DIRTY HALLWAY, DO NOT ENTER," my confusion re-surfaced. He threw some robes and hair nets at us, then scooped us into a room with a pig bigger than me and penned up dogs. "Here are some of the animals we experiment on," he announced. Holding my nose and covering my eyes, I realized my mental translation had actually been perfectly correct. Before I could find an escape route, he pushed us into another room filled of "rats with cancer." Then he took us to an operating table where they conduct the experiments, and "kill them if they are in too much pain." Nauseous status para mí.

I got a first hand look at everything American institutions would keep underground. And I wish the Spaniards would have, too.  Given my Dolbow family upbringing, I left the hospital feeling very glad that I was not a medical student in Madrid. In all fairness though, this is not a good picture of Spanish hospitals at large. I must say, it was a very WEIRD experience.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

The Downside of the Siesta

Alright, so the intention of this blog is in no way to rant. But this one I have to let slide. The Spanish siesta culture is really great. Post-lunch relaxation and the lack of pressure to get things done is a wonderful way to live.

Until you need assistance with something. Then it automatically becomes the worst system in the world. Spain's general lack of work ethic has been tremendously frustrating ever since my Blackberry started malfunctioning on Tuesday.

As evidenced by the fact that no one tips waiters, the Spanish society doesn't really have an emphasis on customer service. Mercedes ranted to me about that yesterday, which inspired me to do this post. I feel like my rant is more acceptable if it is shared by a woman who's been living over here all of her life.

Since Verizon does not exist in Spain, I went to the Vodafone store after lunch. Vodafone owns Verizon, and the logo is printed on my SIM card, so I figured that'd be the place to go for technical support. Silly me though, after lunch time the store was barred up. It's only open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. then 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Which are exactly the hours I normally have class, and then run.

So I changed my schedule to fit with the siestas. Didn't really need to though because when I got there, they informed me that since my phone says "Verizon" on the bottom instead of "Vodafone," they can't help me. When I asked what to do since Verizon does not exist in Spain, they said "Go to a Blackberry store." When I asked if those exist, the girl said, "I'd imagine so. You'd have to look it up online." Then she shrugged her shoulders and went back to Facebook chatting.

The situation was just not something that would have happened in America. I really, really missed the comfort of getting my problems addressed at my earliest convenience. Mom and I skyped the Verizon people a few days later, and they immediately had a new phone sent to my house, which Aunt Jan is conveniently bringing to me in Rome next weekend. Thank you, USA.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

My top 5 tips for visiting churches

More than anything else in Europe, I've become an expert in walking around churches and really not comprehending the history nor the architecture. Just today our group is visiting 10... yes, that's double digits... churches. My list by the time I go home will probably top 100 total. Despite my lack of cultural comprehension, I've compiled a list of aconsejos that would be helpful for any visit to an iglesia:

1. Bring a coat. Stones are cold, and holy edifices never fail to freeze those inside. If you insist on going during the winter (not recommended), I'd suggest bringing ear warmers, gloves, and some woolen socks.

2. Store sunglasses in their case, not on your head. Everything about religious life is focused on up -- towards the heavens. With elaborate ceilings and arches, you're bound to spend a lot of your time staring upwards with your mouth hanging open. And sunglasses atop one's head will consequently crash if not careful.

3. If you happen to enter during a time of mass or service, leave. Immediately.

4. Don't worry too much about taking pictures. There's an infinite number of impresionante things in every church, but there's something to be said for just soaking up the experience. A lot of the majesty and height can't be communicated via pictures. So though pictures are necessary souvenirs, don't forget to spend some time looking thru your own eyes instead of the lens.

5. If visiting a smaller church, perhaps one that says "NO TOURISTS," don't take out your city map to study when you sit in a pew. Not that anyone I know would ever do that or anything.
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Friday, April 8, 2011

Martha Stewart Class en Español

Yesterday my program participated in a Spanish cooking class! We didn't do much of the cooking ourselves, rather it felt like I had a front seat to a live filming of Martha Stewart. But I'm not complaining -- we got three courses of free food plus an appetizer and Sangria.

I did, however, get to flip my own Spanish tortilla! I was super scared to flip, but it turned out pretty good, if I do say so myself.

The red stuff on the side is all-natural tomato sauce. Pretty yummy addition, though I still want to try one with green peppers.

We started out with tomato-sauce covered bread and Sangria made with apple bits. Then we each made our own Spanish tortillas, followed by a massive pan of paella mixta, which donned an American and a Spanish flag in the middle for decoration. It is no surprise my favorite part was the dessert -- we had a tarta Santiago, which is an almond cake, conveniently made without flour for my gluten-free friends. This supports my current hypothesis that almond desserts are the best flavor in España.

They gave us the recipes for all of the dishes, so I'm excited to have those. What I realllly want though are the recipes that Mercedes uses, because her food has been superior to everything else I've eaten in Spain. She said she can make me some fotocopias, so I'm going to work on getting those done.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

The Garden of Earthly Delights

So after visiting the Prado four times (all during free entry hours, don't worry), I finally settled down on my favorite work of art there. Sadly, it's not done by a Spanish painter, so I can't give a cool Spanish anecdote about it. Rather, it's done by a painter from a country I visited earlier this semester -- the Netherlands.

Hiernoymous Bosch painted The Garden of Earthly delights in the late 15th century, they think. It's a three-part painting, with a huge centerpiece and two planks on the sides.


I think it's supposed to be a commentary on the temptations of life. The left side represents Adam and Eve at the beginning of Creation when everything was pure. Then the middle is a garden full of nude people, crazy animals, and of course my biggest temptation -- oversized fruit. The right panel then shows hell and judgement for engaging in the earthly temptations.

I don't know why it's my favorite painting exactly. I think the chronology is pretty cool, and it communicates a clear message. It's hard to see a lot of the details in this little thumbnail -- but it's a very intricate painting. It has its own very distinct style, apart from the millions of other pictures of Jesus, which is probably why it caught my attention. 

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

I'm on top of the world

I've been lucky enough see a lot of great views during my time in Europe. Looking down on things is a new sensation for my five-foot tall eyes, so looking down on entire cities is especially exciting. From the Eiffel Tower in Paris to the Alacazar in Segovia to the massive cathedral in Sevilla, I've climbed a lot of steps. I think perhaps my favorite city-top view though was one of Madrid, because seeing a city filled of buildings I know and love made it extra cool. And my bird's eye view of Madrid didn't even require any steps at all.

Rather, I rode the Teleferico. A amusement park-like ride that takes people from Parque del Oeste (my side of Madrid) over to Casa de Campo (another hugeeee park that houses a real amusement park). 

My parents and I boarded one of these little buckets to check out Madrid from a sky view. 

In addition to seeing familiar places from different angles, I discovered some new places in Madrid as well. For example, I learned that the city has a river! 

Luckily the animated cartoon voice was able to explain to me that this is in fact Madrid's only river.

The Teleferico was a really fun experience, as have been all of my elevated views. But from all the views, there's one thing in common. Whether looking out from Parc Guell in Barcelona or peeping over the edge of the gorge in Ronda, one can't help but think -- the world is SO big and filled with SO many beautiful places. 

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Not So Lame Duck

Spain's current president, Jose Luís Rodriguez Zapatero, announced the other day that he will not run for re-election this upcoming March. It is no shock the Socialist party leader doesn't want to sign up for four more years in charge of this dismal economy. Spain does not have any legal limitations on how many terms a person can serve, but Zapatero is wrapping up his eighth year in office.

Zapatero has decided to leave office in an attempt to salvage future prospects for the Partido Socialista Obrero Español amidst the economic crisis. Local elections take place in May and federal elections are in March. Should be interesting to see how it all turns out.

Even though he is entering a lame duck period, Zapatero already passed enough legislature to last for the next ten years really. From legalizing same sex marriage and expressing divorce procedures to cracking down on tobacco and regulating immigration, Zapatero's hands were very busy signing bill after bill back when he was first inaugurated. He was the champion of the Left -- bringing lots of reforms to the country, winning him support from the youth and other groups.

The grave economic crisis in Spain caused Zapatero to do a complete 180 in some of his policies. With globalization on his mind, the same man who ordered the troops to come back from Iraq on his first day in office just sent planes over to Libya. The country could no longer fund his grand plans to take care of the eldery nor his education gifts to single mothers. As unemployment rates rose, his popularity sunk.

It seems to me that it is impossible for a president to be popular in a time of economic downturn, regardless of the country or situation. Even though Zapatero has faced many hardships in recent years, I think it's important to remember the good times he had as president as well.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Boys don't cry

Though I still have not figured out how to dribble a soccer ball, today I did solve one of the many mysteries that perplexes me every Monday afternoon.

Not a single one of the young soccer superstars has ever made it through the full hour with both feet on the ground. They fall, slide, and dive as if they were swimming around a pool.  Their arms are lined with scrapes, and their pants have more holes than Abercrombie jeans. The standard procedure is to cry and exaggerate the intensity of one's fall, but they always hop back up and keep playing momentarily. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly they return to top form after taking a tumble.

Today the coach fell for the first time. As he followed suit with the tradition of wincing in pain, he did not jump back up as quickly as the little niños. One of the boys ran to his side and said, "It hurts more when you fall because you fall from much higher than us. And you weigh more."

I immediately thought, "Ah-ha! That is exactly why I am so scared of falling on the soccer field (which is actually a cement court). It all makes sense now." Though I technically don't have much farther to fall than the not-so-short eight-year-olds, I definitely weigh more than them after all the plates of paella I've been consuming.

My secret goal is to one day be intense enough about soccer (or any sport really) that I will be willing to wipe out as I try to steal the ball. I'm actually envious of their dedication to the sport. Next week I'm going to wear pants so I can't use my bare legs as an excuse.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Rental cars and really fast trains

I tried out two new methods of transportation around Spain with my adventures with my padres this week.

We started out our venture back to Madrid today in a rental car. I was nervous about driving around in Spanish traffic, but Dad did a great job of navigating the narrow streets. We also had every type of physical insurance possible on the car, so that was reassuring. The Audi A3 turned off every time we stopped, which we thought was a malfunction, but later realized it was actually a fuel-saving feature. The car ride was perfect for views of the Spanish countryside.

After we returned the car in Sevilla, we hopped on the high-speed AVE train. It goes super, super fast.. Like hundreds of kilometers per hour or something.. But you'd never know from inside. The ride is incredibly smooth, and the pretty scenery continued. I took the picture above in the train station.

Now we are back in my apartment, packing up things to send back to the A. Mercedes is making us a seafood paella for dinner, yummmmm!
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Saturday, April 2, 2011

Spelunking minus the diving part

We just emerged from Las Cuevas de la Pileta, some random caves on the way to Ronda. We are keeping up our new routine of doing everything as recommended by the Rick Steve's travel guide -- my parents have even started talking about him like he's our personal friend.

We ventured deep into these hollowed out rocks on a lantern lit tour of old school graffiti, natural lakes, and mineral deposits. The most commonly repeated phrase by our less than fluent in English tour guide was, "Slippery, be careful." I'm proud to report none of the Dolbow 3 that went inside took any tumbles.

Our tour guide looked very similar to a dedicated follower of this blog, known as AD2.

We are now continuing on to Ronda, where we have a tour scheduled with Jesus. From the looks of the journey so far, we are in for some truly majestic scenery.

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Friday, April 1, 2011

Southern Scents

As much as I despise all things orange-flavored, I have to admit, I really enjoy the aroma of the orange blossoms that line the streets of Sevilla.

The fragrance adds to the tropical feeling of this beautiful Southern town. We made it here for the hottest day of the year so far, according to Biz -- my friend from high school who is studying here this semester. Alpharetta represent.

We spent the day soaking up the sun as we strolled around the cathedral, the alacazar (complete with gorgeous gardens), the university (previously a tobacco factory), and the main plazas. But once again, I think my favorite part was smelling the blooming trees.

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